This spring newsletter shares the journey that led to Pomperaug High School’s sister-school partnership with Laiwu No. 1 High School in Laiwu City, Shandong Province in the People’s Republic of China. There are many roads yet to be explored in this journey but we are on our way to exciting new learning through the richly rewarding exchange of knowledge and ideas, and to forging some deeply, meaningful friendships.

Spring of 2006
Dr. Yolande Bosman, Director of World Language Department, Pomperaug High School, and Dr. Lois Lanning, Assistant Superintendent of Schools, complete and submit a grant application to the CT State Department of Education to participate in an educational exchange with a high school in China. The goal of the grant is to create a sister-school partnership between our district and a school in China.

Fall of 2006
We receive notice that our district was awarded the grant! We are among 38 recipients of this distinctive opportunity across the state of Connecticut. I share and discuss the good news with members of the Board of Education subcommittee, Personnel, Policy and Curriculum, and the information was moved forward to the full Board. We are eager to learn more details!

February 2007 through March 2007
Yolande and I attend “Saturday School” sessions in preparation for our trip. Each session is from 8:30 A.M. - 2:30 P.M. and is packed with speakers, language classes, lessons in protocol, the history and future of China, and the background of Connecticut’s commitment to create a powerful exchange with Shandong Province. We meet the people in the delegation with whom we will be traveling. There are approximately 10 other CT school districts, each with a district team, involved in this trip.

April 13, 2007
We are on our way! We are flying from Hartford to Dulles. From Washington, D.C. we have a direct flight to Beijing – about 14 hours of flying time. We arrive on Saturday as we cross the International Date Line. Too elated to sleep, we land energized to embrace this new experience. We have left cold weather behind and fall into instantaneous Spring, with trees in bloom. It’s glorious.

Picture 1: Flying over the mountains of Mongolia   Picture 2:  The Boeing 747 landed in Beijing Picture 3:  The airport in Beijing

The first days in China
As one first enters Beijing, one is struck by the contemporary architecture and ceaseless construction that abounds. It is as if China is recreating a new image of itself as it crosses the threshold of a new century. Amidst this 24-7 building frenzy in the capitol of a governmental seat, one is initially struck by a distinguishable, slower-paced, friendly and open environment. There is a slowness, deliberate and unhassled tempo, to the way in which individuals execute their jobs and play out their roles within this new yet ancient society. This rhythm is observable in the soft tones exchanged between individuals. Interactions are not loud and boisterous but mellow and gentle. The emphasis of individuals is demonstrable in two young girls holding hands and walking arm in arm as they chatted; friends gathered early in the morning for a game of Mahjong; small groups of students exiting from afternoon classes, joking and laughing; an elderly husband and wife walking side-by-side, sharing a faithful admiration; as well as two, old male friends journeying home hand-in-hand. Time invested is the essence of relationships.

In juxtaposition is the erratic and somewhat frenetic rhythm that is evidenced in the traffic -- the increased number of vehicles clashing with the old world use of bicycles as each struggles to find its place in this newly emerging society. Traffic does not seem to abide by any regulations as drivers jut out from side entrances, drive on the wrong side of the road, or even carve out a new lane down the middle of the highway. The echoes of horns beeping and vehicles swerving in serpentine fashion among pedestrians, tricycle vendors, motor scooters with parents transporting children, all contribute to the challenges of such rapid growth in a short period of time.

Another cultural dimension is the role of food as it serves as a venue in understanding another layer of China. Not only in the abundance and presentation of food but also in the rituals of toasting, can the importance of roles be witnessed in one’s position within the social strata. Food is a symbolic representation of social interactions that lead to establishing stronger rapport and trustworthy relationships. The mythological symbolism of the Phoenix is even more relevant and poignant an image as Beijing rises from its historical past into a modern museum of architectural sculpture

As the weekend progresses, we are getting our land-legs by exploring Tiananmen Square by day and evening. Behind Tiananmen Square lies the Forbidden City, where the main entrance was exclusively reserved for use by the Emperor. It’s hauntingly impressive. We take a two hour bus ride to The Great Wall and return to Beijing passing through upscale neighborhoods that are beginning to sprout up throughout the city as more businesses and people move in from the countryside.

The PowerPoint presentation shared at this meeting can be accessed by clicking on the following link. Ministry of Education Presentation. We learned lots of statistics about education in China and were struck by some of the parallels to our educational goals. The national government is now providing free compulsory education (grades 1-9) to all rural students in an effort to educate everyone. This is a huge undertaking in such a vast country. At the conclusion of grade nine is an examination which determines eligibility to enter high school. Currently, approximately 40% of the students nationally are successful. In order to get into a university, a Chinese student needs to pass a rigorous, high stakes exam. They are given but one chance and if a student does not pass, he/she is unable to attend a university in China. There is tremendous pressure on the high school (especially the principal) to prepare students for the college entrance exam. Although the national government is examining this practice, it will be difficult for them to move away from the one-exam approach because there are an insufficient number of universities to accommodate the quantity of students. Consequently, many Chinese students attend universities in other countries, i.e., the United States.

Day 4 in China -- Early Tuesday morning:
We travel by bus for almost seven hours from Beijing to Jinan, the capital of Shandong Province, located in the central western part of Shandong. It is known as the “City of Springs” although most of the springs have gone dry. China has some significant water problems to address.

A farmer’s life is very hard. We saw minimal machinery. Most farmers are tilling their rows of plantings with a pick and hoe, as they innovatively did some 2500 years ago. The methods of planting in rows, as introduced by the Chinese, was not adopted in Europe until the 18th century.
One of China’s most critical goals is to educate all children who live in rural areas where there are fewer schools and teachers.

Day 5 in China. Early Wednesday morning. Each team of our delegation is met in the hotel lobby by a driver and English teacher from his/her sister-school. We are so excited that we no longer feel our exhaustion!

Day 6 in China. The gate to Laiwu No. 1 High School (grades 10-12) is strung with a bright red banner welcoming us to the school! Yolande and I are awed by the recognition bestowed upon us, our visit and our mission. Guards posted at the school gate salute our car as we enter the school yard.

Laiwu No. 1 Middle School (grades 6-12) total student population is 10,000 and it sits on a campus covering over 700 acres. The high school section has the layout and feel of a small college campus rather than a typical American high school. In the senior high section of the school, three five story concrete academic buildings sit side-by-side labeled A, B, C. At the end of the row of academic buildings is the laboratory building where all the science and technology labs are located. Teacher resources are housed in this building as well. The remaining buildings in the senior high section of the campus include: a five story arts building, lecture hall, dining hall, and student dorms. A school library and gymnasium are under construction. Very few people are seen on the campus – everyone has a place to be and a schedule to follow.

We are escorted to a large conference room for a meeting with Mr. Chen and his administrative staff. He is a highly regarded man not only on the campus but also in town, given the size and prestige of Laiwu No. 1 Middle School. This is a formal meeting where we both are showcasing our schools. We discussed school budgeting, strategic planning, teacher evaluation, student performance, state testing, the colleges our students get into, the hiring process, and governance structures of our district. Although we found parallels, there are many differences between our schools. Laiwu No. 1 High School has a strong reputation, as does Pomperaug High School, which makes this a beneficial match for both of us.

Mr. Chen takes a lot of pride in his teachers and has a strong desire for Laiwu No. 1 Senior High to become one of the best high schools in the world. There is a strong emphasis on mathematics and science in the high school academic program. He has concerns about his students studying hard and having strong self-discipline. We are asked to stress to the students how important it is to be serious and diligent in their studies.

The principal expresses his commitment to this sister-school partnership and asks how we could assure him we will continue the relationship. The draft letter of agreement is presented at this point for Mr. Chen to review. Mr. Chen demonstrates his pleasure that we come prepared to sign a formal statement and accepts the letter for consideration. Gifts are exchanged at the end of the meeting. Everyone is enthusiastic about the partnership that is beginning to take root.

Picture 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46: The meeting with administrators lasted approximately two hours. Exchanging gifts is an integral part of the Chinese culture . Gift exchange is a visible expression of friendship. Mr. Chen is offered a Woodbury pewter plate and we in turn receive a beautiful tin print and a plaque of the school.     After the administrative meeting it was time for a tour of the campus. What an outstanding complex! Students live in dorms at the school since many of their homes are a distance away from school. The buildings look new and everyone takes an obvious pride in the campus. Students have responsibilities for maintaining the cleanliness of the grounds and buildings. Picture 47, 48: Just as we were venturing out to tour the school, it was time for student exercise! All students wear uniforms in colors according to their grade level. They chant and jog in unison, double-time, twice daily to keep their minds and bodies fit. After approximately 20 minutes, students quickly return to classes and the campus becomes extremely quiet again. Pictures 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56:  Laiwu No. 1 High School! Dorms for students in grades 10 (3), 11 (2), 12 (1). The new science and technology lab building. Typical student room Library under construction Road to student dining hall Students in music classes at Laiwu No. 1 High School and a technology class in another school that would be typical at our sister-school.

Picture 57: At the end of the morning we return to the administration building for a conversation with English teachers. Questions centered on instructional methods, course offerings, grading systems, preparation for college, and teacher stress! Very common themes!
We learned that high school classes are about 45 minutes long and academic offerings are very similar to our requirements. Students begin English lessons in 3rd grade – they do have an opportunity to learn other second languages (i.e. Russian). Due to the large class sizes (average 50-60) students do not change classrooms because it would be too chaotic. The school day is a couple hours longer than ours, but it was very interesting to learn that if students need extra support, they attend evening and/or weekend classes. There is a relentless pursuit of ensuring students are well prepared for the university examination.

Picture 58: In the afternoon, we are scheduled to lead a two hour student lecture with 600+ students! To have the opportunity to meet and speak with students is the most honorable of all possible experiences. It is one of the factors that brings our trip to life. We learn that more students want to attend our session, however 600 is the capacity of the hall.

Upon our arrival to the lecture hall every student stands in unison, clapping and smiling from ear to ear. Yolande and I are so touched we can hardly contain ourselves. This is a very emotional moment for both of us. The students are beautiful; extremely attentive; ask many, many questions about Pomperaug High School and what our students are like. They are eager to learn and extremely excited about this partnership. The positive attitude they have about Americans is evident from their faces and their comments. Many students and teachers hope to come to America some day. The student questions included: What do American students do in their free time? What type of music do PHS students listen to? How are students prepared for college? Do American students have to work as hard as Chinese students? What is the relationship between students and teachers like in American high schools? Is American life really like Desperate Housewives (!)? Do high school students have food fights like they show in the movie Animal House? What do PHS students think about this partnership with Laiwu No. 1 High School? What is a typical day like for a PHS student? Are American students allowed to have boyfriend and girlfriends? Why do American high school students have so many after school activities and what are they? The students are so curious and enthusiastic!

Picture 62, 63, 64, 65, 66: A traditional Chinese peasant fare made in the traditional fashion. We share this repast with the extraordinary English teachers who quickly capture our hearts!

Rural women come in to preserve the tradition of the old world by  preparing  local specialties for this restaurant. The faces tell the stories of a million words. Unforgettable.

Day 7: The next morning we speak to senior students for two hours. It was another spirited session with most of the same questions as in our first session.

Pictures 67, 68, 69: We love these students!

Pictures 70, 71, 72: We close the morning with the official signing of our sister-school partnership agreement. Note the big red banner in the back welcoming this partnership that is written in Chinese and English. The relationship is now formally sealed and everyone is extremely optimistic and pleased.

Saying goodbye to our new friends is especially emotional—our tears streamed into the bordering Yellow River. It is unimaginable that in such a short time, feelings and emotions could run so deep.

Leaving all of our colleagues at Laiwu No. 1 Middle School is difficult. Their gracious hospitality, the new learning, and the exciting possibilities that lie ahead are on our minds and have filled our hearts in a way that cannot be easily explained.

Picture 74: The esteemed principal, Mr. Chen.

Picture 76: John (Zhang Jun), our personal tour guide who gave us rich information about the China countryside, the school system, and the traditions. We consider him a special friend with whom we will stay in touch.

We head out for Qufu, birthplace of Confucius, with John and our driver. This is our rendezvous point for all the others in our delegation.

Day 8: Before we leave Qufu to head back to Jinan, we get a tour of the birthplace of Confucius. We also stop at Qufu University for a two hour lecture by Professor Jung who is a professor and specialist of Confucianism. Confucianism is a philosophy Chinese educators are trying to revive. Confucianism lies at the heart of the culture of the Chinese people – how they behave as individuals and as citizens. The teaching methods used by Confucius parallel those of John Dewey and renewed attention is being placed on his ideals.

Picture 77: The lecture by Professor Jung at Qufu University. Pictures 78, 79:  Highlights of Confucius’ birthplace and temple.  It is a peaceful, revered place.

Days 8, 9, 10: On the bus ride back to Jinan everyone is buzzing with stories of our sister-schools. Each person feels this was a very noteworthy and valuable trip that offered many insights into education in China that could only be gained through this first hand experience, face-to-face with people.

Pictures 80, 81: In Jinan, we have a little time to catch our breath and regroup. Yolande and I walk down to a gorgeous park where some of Jinan’s famous springs are located. Again, we notice the strategic placement of rocks and walkways around the waterways that accentuate the natural aesthetics which soothe the mind and are a salve to the soul. This garden is not just a garden. We watch children playing in water, families enjoying the outdoors, and couples strolling peacefully as we share our reflections with each other. On our final night, we attend our last banquet with those Chinese dignitaries who had the vision, along with Dan Gregg, for this Connecticut-Shandong undertaking. This was the culminating event with high officials in the Chinese educational system. On the day of departure, we rise at daybreak to board the new high-speed train followed by a bus ride to the Beijing airport. A long travel day awaits us before we touch soil in Connecticut.

Final Thoughts:
“I hear and I forget. I see and I remember. I do and I understand.” Confucius

We cannot say that we understand all there is to know about China from our brief trip; we can only say that we are deeply affected by its people. We are left with strong impressions of the students we met.

Children are the same around the world – they have the same questions, the same concerns, the same stresses. As East faces West, East sees our students as having more choices, opportunities and free time. From the other perspective, as West looks East we see a work ethic and self-discipline in students that should be emulated.

Dr. Bosman and I are the early messengers of what we discovered at Laiwu No. 1 High School in China. We now feel compelled to open the eyes of those around us to the incredible possibilities of shared hope and prosperity in bringing our young people together.

To close our memoirs we share the significant and symbolic image of the Phoenix, which is evident in all facets of the Chinese culture:
The Phoenix: Emblem of the Empress and of beauty. Only appears in time of peace and prosperity. Ranks second of the four supernatural creatures, the dragon being the first, the unicorn third and the tortoise fourth. A train of small birds is always in attendance when the phoenix flies.
We are ready to take flight!!!

Some summer books about China: Wild Swans, Jung Chang; River Town, Peter Hassler; Understanding China, John Bryan Starr